In today’s episode, I shared the process of building a goat stanchion. Then I went on to express my gratitude to all of you, as well as shared another quick “goaty” project – an easy DIY hay rack.
I have included an article with the cut list and details of the goat stanchion below.
Watch this episode here:
How to Build a Goat Stanchion
A stanchion is simply a device to restrain a dairy animal for milking. Technically, it is the actual part that holds the head of the animal.
But besides milking, a stanchion is also a way to hold an animal still to work on their feet. Goats, like horses, have to have their hooves trimmed periodically. Using a stanchion allows this to be a one-man job, instead of two.
To make this goat stanchion we used:
- drill with bits
- 2 1/2 inch wood screws
- 1 1/2 inch screws, for attaching the decking
- (5) 8′ 2×4″ boards
- a 6″ (3/8″ thick) carriage bolt, with matching nut and washers
- miter saw
- jig saw
- electric sander
- for the decking, we used pallet wood. You can use cedar planks, or any other decking wood
- feeder bin & hooks to attach
- metal latch or bungee cord, to keep stanchion closed
The Cut List
This is the list of cut boards that you will need to make the frame of the stanchion.
- (2) 2×4, 42″ (frame sides)
- (2) 2×4, 39 1/2″ (stanchion/neck restraints)
- (1) 2×4, 36″ (platform support)
- (2) 2×4, 25″ (front legs/corner posts)
- (5) 2×4, 21″ (frame front, back and inner piece, stanchion supports)
- (2) 2×4, 14″ (back legs)
- (2) 2×4, 10 5/8″ – mitered at 45 degrees on each end (back leg supports)
- platform decking should be cut to 24 inches long. The number of boards you will need will be dependent upon what wood you choose and how wide it is. The platform surface you cover will be 24 x 39 inches.
- A jigsaw will be used to cut the stanchion later for the goat’s head. You will also trim off a corner of the bottom of one of the stanchion boards.
How to Put the Goat Stanchion together
Attach the sides (42″) to one of the frame ends (21″) with wood screws. We put two screws in on each side. Generally, I always use two screws for every connection.
Attach the inner end piece, 3 inches from the end of the front of the platform.
Add the decking support (36″) inside the frame. This board will be placed flat, and centered at the top edge of the platform.
Attach the front frame piece to complete the platform frame.
Attach the back legs (14″) to the back of the platform frame. Then attach the mitered back leg supports, inserting one screw through the support and into the leg, and 2 screws through the support and into the side of the platform frame.
Slide the front legs (25″) into the frame. 10 1/2 inches of the leg should be below the deck frame, so that they are the same height as the back legs. Screw them in place.
Attach the decking to the platform. We pre-drilled the holes for this, since we were repurposing pallet wood. The decking is attached to the platform with 1 3/4″ screws.
Attach the two stanchion supports (21″) at the top of the front leg posts, one on each side.
Using a jig saw, cut a very gentle curve from the inside of the each of the stanchion (39 1/2″) boards. We did this by cutting one, then tracing the curve onto the second board. Overall, the curve we cut was 21 inches from one end to the other, and started about 2 inches from the end that will be the top.
Sand the edges smooth.
Insert one of the stanchion sides into the frame, lining the inner edge with the center of the frame. Screw it into place.
If you attach the other stanchion side as-is, it could be difficult for it to swivel on the bolt to open and close. To remedy this, I cut about a 1 1/2 inch triangle from the inside corner, taking it off at a 45 degree angle. (see the second image below.)
Slide the second side of the stanchion into place. Drill a hole all the way through both parts of the frame and the stanchion. (The bolt we used is 3/8 inch thick, so we used a 3/8 inch drill bit.)
Insert the 6″ carriage bolt through the hole and attach the washer and nut to secure it.
To keep the stanchion closed, you can attach a hook at the top, or you can keep it closed with a bungee cord. Use whichever you prefer.
Attach a feeder to the front with hooks.
That is it!
Your goat stanchion is now ready to use. You can also paint it if you wish.